11.17.2009

Babes in Jetlag


Kyoto, Japan: It’s 5:00 in the morning and your 9-month-old is more interested in coo-ing than snoozing. This is a classic traveling-with-kids moment because you now have to choose to either 1) slowly go insane worrying about waking others, run out of your ryokan (Japanese traditional inn) screaming, and spend the rest of your life deranged and singing karaoke for change on the street corners of Japan or 2) simply take advantage.

This very scenario happened to Marisa and me on our second major “globetotting” trip. Our first-born, Noah, was wide-awake way too early in the morning and Marisa was still beat from being on mom-duty all night. So instead of going Loco in Kyoto (sounds like a good south-of-the-border action movie to me), I grabbed the little man, our Kelty Pack, and my camera and we headed out to explore the cultural capital of Japan at daybreak. The results were breathtaking. With no one out but the sun peeking over the rooftops, we stumbled into everything from picture perfect alleys filled with brightly colored doorsteps adorned with bonsai and ancient bicycles to one of Kyoto’s newest shrines, Heian Jingu, which boasts one of the largest torii (shrine gate) in Japan.

So when traveling with small children, here’s the golden nugget to grasp so you don’t lose sleep over the trivial: your children deserve to be on vacation just as much as you. When was the last time you tried teething or learning to walk? That’s as hard as any nine to five desk job, and it deserves some paid time off. This means allowing your kids to be on vacation from their sleep schedule as well as everything else. Instead of fretting over missed naps, late nights or early mornings, bask in the randomness of everyone’s internal clock and I promise you’ll enjoy yourself a whole lot more.

For Noah and I that morning, his off-kilter sleeping schedule allowed a glimpse into a heritage (Noah’s heritage in fact, since he’s a quarter Japanese) that we otherwise might have missed. Unobscured by any other distraction, the city itself seemed to whisper to us as we reverently passed through its streets. We marveled at the delicacy of the streets and homes, windows into a culture centuries older than our own. We were awed by the humble grandeur of the Heian Jingu shrine, with its brilliant blue tiled roofs and glowing orange framework. We finished by silently paying our respects at a prayer tree: its brilliant white shards of fabric filled with poetic pleas gently lifting towards the heavens in the morning breeze. This was awe-inspiring. This was tear-jerkingly awesome. This never would have happened had I not been traveling with the best 9-month-old tour guide the world has ever known, who was now snoozing in the Kelty Pack.

11.16.2009

My five-year-old’s Nice

Walking through Nice’s old town (Vieux Nice), it’s not hard to spot five things my five-year-old would love about this place:
  1. Gelato: Nice offers some of the best gelato flavors found on the planet. Everything from the classic nutella to questionable flavors like black olive or beer (the latter is not for my five-year-old).
  2. Pastries: When Christ teaches us in the New Testament that we should become as little children, I think one of the requirements not specifically outlined was eat more pastries. Vieux Nice offers my five-year-old countless opportunities to indulge alongside his gourmand father.
  3. Dogs: Nice has got to be one of the most dog-friendly places on earth. From grocery stores to fancy-schmancy restaurants, it’s canine time. Nothing pleases my five-year-old more than seeing a Shitzu enjoying Socca or Pug pounding a Pizza alla Niçoise.
  4. Pigeons: People don’t bring pigeons here on vacation. Like most decent-sized Western cities, Nice is bobbing with them. And what five-year-old boy doesn’t enjoy some quality pigeon chasing?
  5. Nice Plage: Two words: rocks and water. Nice Plage is a gorgeous black rock beach that stretches the length of the city’s Promenade. I’m pretty certain that the endorphins kicks into high gear the minute my five-year-old sees acres of smooth black rocks flanked by an endless supply of water.

11.13.2009

My five-year-old’s Monaco

Monaco, home to the world’s best-looking cars, biggest gambling stakes, and best-dressed natives, is also the temporary home of something that would actually interest my five-year-old: the fair! Throughout the year, fairs of varying degrees make their way across the European continent, making week to month-long stops - depending on the size of the city.

When we say “fair” in America, I often picture scenes from an E.B. White-induced dream (prize-winning pigs, cotton candy, and a rickety Ferris wheel), but the fairs in Europe are more like mini mobile theme parks. The fair at Monaco (here for a month) offers everything from swinging upside down in the Monte Carlo skyline at the height of 35 feet to being catapulted into the air faster than your stomach can say “Wait I just ate an entire Italian pizza!”

Here’s a quick glimpse: